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Royal Wardrobes

Generally the magnificent and luxurious clothing in a ritual ceremony is also a guarantee of the legitimacy of person. Here we found that the palace customary fashion could not be separated from the meaning of position. For example, the clothes which wore by sons from one king but came from different mother are not same.

Not all certain patterns can be used for people who do not have blood relations with the Sultan. There are even certain patterns specifically designed for the Sultan, such as the pattern of kawung and huk during the reign of Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono VII. Huk pattern classified non-geometric motifs consisting of shell motif (symbols of water or the underworld which means humble), the motif of beast, (means tranquility and prosperity), the motif of cakra, bird, sawat  (mean patience) and Garuda motif (bird in official seal of Republic of Indonesia). Therefore, the leader or king is expected to give prosperity to the people and able to endure running the government wheels.

In the reign of Hamengkubuwono VIII, kawung and huk were rather abandoned and replaced with parang which became the main guidelines of determining the degree in one's nobility. Three other patterns are palace standard styles, i.e, sement (from the word “semi” which means growing), sawat (the wearer is expected to gain prosperity, authority and protection), riris/Udan liris (means drizzling rain, hope for safe, prosperous, resilient and to perform duty well).

Basically fashion as an attribute of nobility can be divided into two categories, namely daily clothes (informal) and special event clothes (formal). Especially for formal clothing is divided into two occasions; for alit (small) ceremony and ageng (big) ceremony. Small ceremony is for example tetesan (circumcision for girls), tarapan (first menstruation) and tinggalan dalem padintenan (warning for coronation of king based on the calculation of day and pasaran of Java, for example Tuesday Kliwon). Big ceremony is for example supitan (circumcision for boys), Royal wedding between relatives, dalem tahunanjumenengan dalemagustusan, and sedan (king's burial).

Informal clothes for young Sultan's daughter is sabukwala which consists of three kinds, namely sabukwala nyamping batik for daily clothes and small ceremony, sabukwala nyamping praos for tetesan and supitan receptions simultaneously, and sabukwala nyamping cindhe for Grebeg and tetesan receptions which are not along with supitan. And for the boys are kencongan, surjan clothes, lonthong tritik, belts in the form of kamus songketan with cathok/timang from suwasa (low-grade gold).

For the Sultan's daughters who at the age between 11-14 years, wear pinjungan. This cloth is worn by folding the end of the cloth in the triangle form as a decorative cover the breast. Pinjungan is divided into daily pinjung, traveling pinjung, small ceremony pinjung, and pinjung for Garebeg ceremony.

When the Sultan's daughters are at their teenager or adults, they wear semekanan (from the word "semekan", a long cloth with the width half of the width of usual fabric used as the breast cover). Especially for teenagers or unmarried daughters wear plain semekan with unadorned silk in the middle and those who are already married wear semekan tritik with tengahan (silk in the middle).

For the Sultan' sons who have been at their age of teenager or adult, wear surjan everyday. It is batik with wiru (folds) in the middle, lonthong tritikkamus songketantimang, and destar as headgear. They also wear special clothing, namely Keprabon during the big ceremony. It consists of dodotan dress, kanigaran dress, and kaprajuritan dress.

A various customary fashions including its accessories also contain many symbolic meanings. For example, sangsangan sungsun (tiered necklace) symbolizes the three levels of human life from birth, marriage, and death associated with the Java concept of afterlife, present life, and mortal lifeBinggel kana (bracelet) has circular form symbolizes the eternity. The little mountain (Mount Meru) on pethat (comb) symbolizes the greatness of God and the hope for happiness. Bun garnish of ceplok with jenehan composed of three colors, red, green, and yellow (worn by bride's daughter) is the symbol of Trimurti; three gods who give the life.

The interaction with Western culture, especially with Netherlands has influenced the development of fashion in the Palace. The effect, for example, usage caps, anggar (a place for keris), socks in the kaprajuritan dress, rante, karset, pocket watch, timang (buckle), rimong on cruise clothing, bird feather, fan, brooch, and many others.


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MSMunir October 31, 2011 05:11

Mohon info pakaian yang dipakai oleh kedua orang dalam foto berikut : http://www.flickr.com/photos/munir3/6295750183/. Terima kasih sebelumnya

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Admin KerajaanNusantara.com October 31, 2011 05:11

Foto tersebut merupakan para penari Lawung Ageng yang akan menari pada resepsi GKR Bendara dengan KPH Yudanegara di Dalem Kepatihan.