Royal Wardrobes

Color of clothing in Kutai Sultanate had its own meaning to shows the identity as well as the rights of its wearer. Here are the colors associated with royalty and nobles of Sultanate:

Color of clothing for men

• The Sultan wears dark yellow or golden yellow dress
• The Crown Prince wears bright yellow dress
• The Prince minister wears dark blue dress
• The Prince wears light blue dress
• Adji Kiji wears dark purple dress
• Raden wears dark green dress
• Bambang old wearing a red dress
• Adji who have married or older age wears black dress
• Adji who still teenager or unmarried wears pink dress
• Awang wears dark brown dress
• Encek wears beige dress
• The husbands of relatives who are not the descendants of Adji wear gray dress.

Color of clothing for women

• The Queen wears amber-colored dress
• The Princess wears a dark purple dress
• Raden wears dark green dress
• Adji who has married or older age wears black dress
• Adji who is still a teenager or unmarried wears pink dress
• Dayang wears dark brown dress

Fashion code according to Kutai Kartanegara Sultanate system

• Someone who still under the age is prohibited to wear Storong (kind of crown) and Kepong (kind of cloak or coat).
• Someone who has not married is justified to wear a cap.
• In accordance with the system, nobles justified to wear Storong are only the Sultan, the Prince Minister, and the Prince who serves Sultanate.
• Storong feather is worn only by the Sultan and the Prince Minister.
• The Prince Minister was given the freedom to wear white or black fur on Storong he wore.
• The Prince Minister is obliged to wear black fur on award ceremony.

Fashion royalty code of Kutai Sultanate

1.   Sultan Costumes

In an official ceremony, the Emperor wears King’s clothes, Kepong or King’s coat, and Storong. At the memorial anniversary of the coronation, before wearing Storong, Sultan wears Ketopong (crown made of gold). After wearing helmet and underwent several processions, Sultan will wear Storong. However, the Storong which used at the commemoration of the coronation and the events of Erau is different. Clothing of the Emperor also comes with a badge with picture of a pair of snakes, Sultan Star, and Crown Star.

2.   Prince Minister Costumes

In fashion code, the Prince Minister wears Storong, Minister shirt, and stripped pant. To use Storong, it must be according to the rules of usage. Storong has several forms and usage procedures adjusted to the events and which one used by the Sultan. Clothing of Prince Minister also equipped with an earldom who serves as Prime Minister, and Prince Star who serves as Prime Minister, and the sword.

3.   Prince Adji Costumes

Prince Adji wears Storong without any fur and Prince’s clothes. As for the completion, Prince Adji wears an earldom and Prince Star that are not served as Prime Minister. The Prince star is worn on the right.

4.   Adji Kiji Costumes

Adji Kiji wears Storong which not decorated with fur and Adji Kiji’s clothes. As for the completion, Adji Kiji wears an earldom.

5.   Adji Raden Costumes

Raden Adji or also called Raden wears Storong which not decorated with fur and Raden’s clothes. As for the completion is an insignia of Adji Raden and Raden sword. The sword is also used by community leaders who got a title from Sultanate, including Bambang. In addition, a similar sword is also used among the soldiers who are the Commander of Pangkon Panjang Army and his deputy.

6.   Adji Bambang Costumes

Adji Bambang or also called Bambang wears Storong which not decorated with fur and Bambang’s clothes. As for the completion is an insignia of Adji Bambang.

7.   Untitled Adji Costumes

Untitled Adji wears Storong which not decorated with fur and Untitled Adji’s clothes. As for the completion is an insignia of Untitled Adji and Abdi Star of Relatives.

8.  Non Descendant Husbands of Adji Costumes

The husbands who are not descendants of Adji wear Storong which not decorated with fur and Husbands non descendants of Adji’s clothes. The clothes are similar to those used by Adji. But there is little difference between them such as Adji’s clothes has yellow color at the end of the sleeve, while the non descendant husbands of Adji’s clothes has not yellow color, but 3 pieces of yellow buttons and equipped with an insignia of Non Descendant Husbands of Adji.

9.   Demong Costumes

Demong wears a dress called Demong.

10.  Figures or community leaders Costumes

A person who contributed to Sultanate and public figures dress as an ordinary people. But the person who contributed to Sultanate wears the insignia of meritorious person as for public figures wear a star called Setia Mahkota Asylum Star.

11.  Soldiers Costumes

• Pangkon Panjang Front

Clothing of Pangkon Panjang is divided into three parts, which are clothing of commander, commandant, and soldier. Third outfit consists of hat, shirt, and pant. The hat for Commanders and soldiers has same shape. The only difference is the color of Wapan, yellow for commandant while white for soldier. Wapan is shaped like a trident or three-edged spear.

In addition to hats, there are other differences between ommanders, commandant, and soldiers. The difference lies in the insignia worn on both shoulders. Insignia of Commander depicts two pieces of Wapan, one piece for Deputy, while there is no Wapan for commandan and soldier.

As the flag, it is triangle shaped with a picture of a dragon in the middle of the flag. In each appearance, Pangkon Panjang also comes with 3 pieces of drums.

As for the weapon, Pangkon Panjang is equipped with Keliau (shield), one-eyed spear, three-eyed spear, and saber. For those who bear three-eyed spear, implies that they are guard of the Emperor. If three-eyed spear found on the a war, means Sultan took part on it. So it can be concluded that wherever the three-eyed spear is found, there is Sultan there. Without the Emperor, three-eyed spear is invisible. Three-edged spear symbolizes the unification of two kingdoms, Batara kingdom in heaven with the kingdom of god creates Adji Kingdom on earth.

• Pangkon Dalam Front

Clothing of Pangkon Dalam consists of shirt, pant, and headband. The Front is also has triangle shaped flag, a circle in the middle of it, and a picture of cattle Suana in the middle of circle.

• Bearer of Sultan Umbrella Front

Clothing of Umbrella Bearer is uniform consisting of shirt, glove, and pant. The glove worn on the clothing is as the traditional fashion of Malay. Clothing of the Umbrella Bearer is using Pesapu, but without headband.

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